(London) The sources of inspiration for stylists are as varied as they are surprising, as London Fashion Week showed on Sunday, with a collection inspired by the archives of a palace of the English aristocracy, and another by enormous 4X4s , Monster trucks.
Erdem and the Duchess of Devonshire
Designer Erdem Moralioglu organized his show under the colonnade of the British Museum, which immediately created a majestic atmosphere. This Briton, who created the Erdem brand in 2005, is known for being a storyteller: each fashion show is a story in itself.
For his spring-summer 2024 collection, he delved into the archives of Chatsworth Palace, the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire, in the north of England, which has been in the family for sixteen generations. A notebook is given to the guests, with photos of the Duchess, very elegant and mysterious, in the 30s and 40s, in her palace.
Erdem has created a poetic collection, with prints based on Chatsworth engravings and tapestries. Skirts and dresses are long. The shoulders are bare like in the princess dresses that little girls dream of. The fabrics, organza, satin, are noble. A brooch in the shape of a dragonfly is inspired by one that belonged to the Duchess.
The models have a demure hairstyle, their hair pulled back, sometimes in a braid.
But some looks are very modern too. While an Elvis Presley cover sounds, models parade in large biker jackets, including one in petrol blue which partly covers a long transparent pink skirt. Girls wear simple bralettes to accompany their large skirts tight at the waist. Colors are flashy, pink, green, blue.
On their feet, all the models wear the same pointed shoes, with a small heel, but with a huge bow on the side. Pretty, but not necessarily easy to wear outside the palace.
It’s a completely different England that Londoner Sinead Gorey shows, with her collection full of energy called “British Summer of Love”. She is one of the latest designers to arrive on the fashion show calendar.
The Union Jack returns on many pieces, including high-heeled boots, like those worn by the Spice Girls in the 90s. Kate Moss appears on pants.
On a close-fitting black top and on a dress, “London swings!” is written. Again! » (It’s party time in London! Again!). Another slogan: “God save the sexy and glamourous”, in reference to the Sex Pistols.
It’s a collection for girls who don’t take themselves seriously and who aren’t afraid to wear short skirts to go party.
Masha Popova’s Monster Trucks
At Masha Popova, the skirts are mini, the waist is always low, and the jeans are even low-cut on the hips.
The Ukrainian designer known for her “obsession with handling denim” has once again worked on this material. This time, the denim is dyed, faded, worn, scuffed or transformed into patchwork to give it a “resistant”, “solid” appearance.
The collection entitled “Monster” refers to Monster trucks, these 4X4 vehicles with oversized wheels. The “electrifying color palette” even in the hair of certain models recalls the flashy bodies of these machines. The skinny models (with the exception of a single plus-size model) parade to the rhythm of techno music punctuated by the roar of an engine.
The Ukrainian designer counted among her distinguished guests the cream of TikTok, the superstar of the social network Abby Roberts, followed by more than 16 million people, or her sister Charlotte Roberts, who has nearly 9 million followers, up to to fashion content creator and model Emma Winder.
Although not a fan of “double denim” (understanding completely denim outfits), Emma Winder really appreciated the tones of the clothes, she told AFP at the end of the show.
On Monday, it will be Burberry’s turn to present its collection.