(London) For the collection he presented on Saturday at London Fashion Week, designer JW Anderson played with clay, sculpting clothes from this material, in a universe very far from Korean designer Eudon Choi, who was inspired by the works of the impressionist artist Berthe Morisot.
JW Anderson and matter
The invitation to designer JW Anderson’s show was not a simple piece of cardboard, but a block of clay, which inevitably aroused curiosity, but also suggested that the material would be at the heart of the collection.
In fact, the first models arrive in Bermuda shorts and hooded sweaters made from molded clay. They are reminiscent of moving sculptures. Then came looks in bright colors in a shiny material, like plastic, then crochet dresses, and also feathers worn as belts and on sleeves.
Jonathan Anderson, who was born in Northern Ireland, creates bomber jackets, like cocoons, long enough to cover the thighs. Trenchcoats continue into long skirts. “This is how you can use your coat as a dress, in a very simple way,” the designer explained after the show.
He says he created this collection, wanting to maintain a certain “naivety”. While being “pragmatist”, he wants to “have fun”.
PHOTO HENRY NICHOLLS, AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE
JW Anderson’s looks use bright colors in a shiny material, like plastic.
We imagine his looks worn in the street, by young, trendy people.
For the evening, JW Anderson offers draped dresses, in a light fabric, which tie around the body.
Her fashion show attracted several celebrities, including British actresses Suki Waterhouse, Sophie Okonedo, Jenna Coleman as well as Ncuti Gatwa, who notably starred in the series Sex Education.
The designer, who is also the artistic director of the Spanish house LOEWE, owned by the luxury group LVMH, also counts among his guests Anna Wintour, the head of Vogue American. At his side, Edward Enninful, the editor-in-chief of Vogue British, who announced his departure next January to take a role as global advisor within the Condé Nast group.
According to several media, relations are strained between these two fashion powerhouses, but in front of the photographers, nothing appears so.
Eudon Choi, the impressionist
Korean designer Eudon Choi was inspired by the “dreamy” paintings of French impressionist artist Berthe Morisot for this collection.
PHOTO HENRY NICHOLLS, AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE
Eudon Choi’s looks are often monochrome, with a “soothing” neutral color palette.
The model who opens the show must be around sixty years old. The designer has in fact chosen models of all ages. The collection, presented in the garden of a church in central London, is elegant and refined.
The lines are simple, the fabrics light and fluid. The designer wanted to “freeze a precise moment in time”, in the manner of Morisot in his paintings.
The looks are often monochrome, with a “soothing” neutral color palette. The tones evolve according to moods, going from the softness of powder pink to the total look of anthracite satin. The designer thus moves from daytime outfits to nighttime ones, combining transparency with other more opaque fabrics. For some looks, the designer still dares to use a floral print, or the contrast of black and white.
Feben, the young girl on the rise
This designer, recently graduated from the prestigious Central Saint Martins University in London, has already worked with the singer Beyoncé, for whom she created a stage outfit.
PHOTO HENRY NICHOLLS, AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE
Feben’s collection
Influencers were present in large numbers at his fashion show. Her collection is also perfect for social networks, colorful and sexy.
The model who opens the show wears a long, tight-fitting, turquoise blue dress that leaves no flaws untouched. Feben created dresses made entirely of pearls, largely transparent and ending in fringes.
On a close-fitting white dress, stains of yellow paint appear. It is available as a tank top for both women and men. It’s probably the easiest piece to wear, which we will certainly soon find on influencers.
